Monday night was the best part of Carnaval for me. Laura and I had tried to purchase tickets to the samba parade in the Sambodrome online, but they sold out just as we were in the process of ordering them. I was really disappointed because getting to experience Carnaval in the Sambodrome is, for most foreigners, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, I happened to be talking to my French friends about it the night before, and they said they were going with some Peruvian PUC friends to the Sambodrome Monday night to try to buy tickets outside the stadium, so we went along with them.
The subway let us off a few blocks from the stadium, but there were already lots of people everywhere. We passed lots of members of samba schools who were either wearing various components of their costumes, or else carrying them in large garbage bags. There were also people handing out plastic flags to wave during particular samba schools.
It wasn't difficult to find ticket sellers; it seemed like they were every 200 feet or so. One of the Peruvians did most of the negotiating, but we ended up walking around almost the entire stadium before we found tickets with which we were satisfied. It was great - the ticket I ended up with was about $50, almost $150 cheaper than the ticket I had tried to buy online!
We had tickets in the grandstand of Sector 1, which is where the samba schools first enter the parade route. On the other side of the stadium are covered boxes, and tickets there sell for upwards of $1000. Because the Sambodrome is only used for its official purpose for a few days each year, in the off season the covered boxes are used as public school classrooms.
Sunday night and Monday night are when Rio's best samba schools perform. Six schools perform each night as part of a competition, and the six highest-placing schools out of those twelve get to parade again the following Saturday in the Parade of Champions. Three of the schools that we saw Monday night, Salgueiro, Portela (my favorite), and Mangueira, went on to the Parade of Champions. Salgueiro was the overall champion, too, so I'm glad I went to the Monday night parade! Other samba schools parade at different times throughout Carnaval, but Sunday night and Monday night are the parades that get broadcast across the country on TV.
The parade was every bit as amazing as it gets made out to be. Each samba school consisted of drummers (the bateria) out front, and then alternating succession of dancers and floats. Each float seemd to be more beautiful and impressive than the last, and I used up an entire memory card taking pictures. It was difficult to take pictures of the dancers, though, because they danced and spun almost constantly, so many of the pictures turned out a little blurry.
Carnaval parade floats are no ordinary floats. Most of the samba schools come from poor neighborhoods, but they invest a huge amount of money in the Carnaval floats and costumes, and as a result they are an immense source of pride for the communities. A couple of the floats had acrobats twirling on ribbons or bungee cords, and at least one had a TV screen playing something. One school had floats that were a giant eagle and a giant wolf, and as they went by they played the call of an eagle and the howl of a wolf over loudspeakers. I thought that was a cool touch, especially since the eagle call was so eerie, and we could hear it before we really even saw the float. Since it was one of the samba school's very first floats, if not the first, it made for quite a dramatic entrance.
My favorite floats, however, were on the ones that often came near the end of a school's parade. These floats would shoot confetti into the air, and sometimes they had fog machines as well. I liked the confetti because it made everything seem even more festive, and it was how I'd pictured the parade in my head. We were about eleven rows from the top of the huge grandstand, and the confetti reached us even there. Paul caught one of the little pieces of silver foil to save as a souvenir.
Fireworks marked the start of each school's parade, and the giant TV screen at the end of the stadium would show singers down on the parade route. They would sing live for a little while, and then the music would switch to loudspeakers blasting the samba school's song. The words to all the songs were printed in the program so that people could sing along.
There's a tourist section somewhere in the Sambodrome, but we were in one of the regular Brazilian sections. A few people were wearing festive headbands, but most people were just dressed normally. Some were wearing shirts specific to a samba school, and others had on the colors of their favorite school. The impression I'd had previously of Brazilians at the Sambodrome was that it was just one crazy party where everyone danced all night long. In actuality, most people watched the parade calmly. Some people would move a bit with the music, but very few people were really dancing. A girl below me would break out into samba every now and then, but even she watched calmly for the most part. The atmosphere was far from boring, but it wasn't as frenzied as I'd imagined it. It makes sense that it was that way, though. The parade started at 9:00 p.m. and lasted all night, so to maintain an extremely high energy level for that long of time would have been absolutely exhausting.
Each samba school took more than an hour to parade through the Sambodrome, and the only breaks in the music were after a school had passed through and the route was being cleaned before the next school started. Streetsweeper vehicles and guys with brooms would come out to clear the debris, and one time one of the guys paused from his work to perform his own samba routine for the crowd. It was really funny.
As far as basic services go, I was impressed with how the Sambodrome was set up. In addition to men walking around in the stands selling drinks and popsicles, Sector 1 had one place selling food and drinks and another selling just drinks (in order to reduce the food line). I was amused that the food place was selling hot dogs and cheeseburgers, just like in the US. Brazilian hot dogs are usually served with a sauce that I don't care for, but the Sambodrome hotdogs came with packets of ketchup and mustard instead, the only time I've ever seen American-style hotdogs in Brazil. There were lines to get food and drinks, but they weren't unreasonable.
Apart from the food, the bathrooms also seemed capable of handling the amount of people in Sector 1. There were two sets of restrooms plus an additional line of portable toilets. The lines to the restrooms weren't bad, either, and the portable toilets looked unused. Assuming the other sectors are set up like Sector 1, the Sambodrome seems quite capable of handling the amount of people it holds.
We left the Sambodrome at about 4:30 in the morning, before the last samba school had even started (most people don't watch all six schools). Outside the stadium there was another party going on in the streets, still going strong even at the early hour. We walked to the nearest subway station and took the subway to the stop nearest our neighborhoods, and then we took a bus the rest of the way home. It generally isn't safe to take buses at night, but we were a large enough group that it didn't really matter. It was 5:45 before I finally got home, and it was already light by then. I guess that's one way to avoid walking home along deserted streets at night - simply wait until the sun comes up before going home.
I'm so happy that I got to see a parade in the Sambodrome. It's such a famous part of Brazilian culture, but I never thought I'd have the chance to see it firsthand. I'm really lucky that I got the opportunity to go, especially since as of the day before, I still had no ticket and thought all hope was lost. I'm so thankful the stars aligned in my favor!

at the Sambodrome!!!

we got free hats!




the green, yellow, and blue form one half of a Brazilian flag


the Taj Mahal!

fireworks at the beginning of a school's parade

the huge eagle float






acrobatic drummers attached to bungee cords

the bateria of Salgueiro, the winning samba school

Salgueiro's bateria
