Saturday, May 30, 2009

Português

It may sound strange, but the thing that improves my Portuguese the most is just hanging out with friends. It’s the only time I get to practice talking for extended stretches of time. I don’t really have to speak much during the day, so if I don’t do anything with friends on a particular day, it’s possible the only Portuguese I’ll use will be to buy food. My classes are lecture-based, so I don’t usually have to talk in them unless I’m called on in Portuguese to give an answer to a grammar exercise. I suppose on some level being in class helps my listening comprehension, but I could understand almost everything my professors said (save for the odd vocabulary word here and there) from the very beginning, so I don’t really feel like I’ve improved much in that regard. I am starting to master the art of listening with only one ear, though, and that’s kind of fun.


What I find to be much more beneficial, though, is the informal conversation that goes on when I’m out with my friends. In general, I think it’s a little harder to understand informal conversation than it is to understand my class lectures. In part I think that is because in my lectures, I always have a sort of base vocabulary to go off. In literature, my mind pulls up its literature vocabulary. In sociology, the sociology vocabulary. I have a frame of reference and can predict roughly where the lectures will go, so I always know what kinds of words to expect. In informal conversation, on the other hand, anything goes. Being able to converse easily in a non-academic setting require a far wider range of vocabulary, and the ability to recognize all those unexpected words instantaneously.

The absolute hardest thing for me when trying to understand Portuguese is when someone asks me a question out of the blue that I’m not expecting. In an ongoing conversation, I can predict what’s coming and if I don’t understand a word, I can use context clues and often figure it out with no problem. In an isolated question, there are no context clues. Even if I know every word in the question on its own, if the words are strung together and said quickly when I’m not paying close attention, there’s a good chance I won’t understand the question the first time it’s asked. When I’m just talking with my friends it’s not a big deal, but I find unanticipated questions slightly stressful when dealing with food vendors.

I know the routine questions. If I order a Coca-Cola, I’ll be asked whether I want a regular or diet one. If I order a salgado, I’ll be asked whether I want to eat there or have it to go. Occasionally I’ll be asked if I want it heated up. If I order juice, I’ll sometimes be asked if I want it with sugar. If I don’t pay with exact change, I’ll usually be asked if I have it (for some reason Brazilian cashiers really don’t like making change). All of these questions I’ve grown very accustomed to, know to anticipate, and can answer without a problem. If, however, I were to be asked if I wanted honey to go with my muffin or sauce to go on my sandwich, I’d probably be lost. I do my best to get away with just a smile and a nod when I don’t understand, but things can get messy when a specific answer is required of me. In the best of situations, I understand the question the second time it is asked. In the worst of situations, the cashier and I are left blinking at each other in an awkward communicational impasse. I feel so helpless when that happens, but I try to get out of it by smiling a lot and just picking an option, even if I don’t understand what I’m picking. I once ended up with the odd combination of salmon ravioli in a chicken sauce when that happened. The cashier must’ve thought I was crazy, but it was surprisingly good.


Smiling and nodding can get a person very far in a foreign culture. Copying body language can, as well. There’s a Brazilian girl that sometimes talks to me in my literature class, and occasionally she’ll lean over and whisper something to me while the professor is talking. My ability to understand quickly-whispered Portuguese is just about zero, but if she’s smiling, I’ll just smile back and act like I understand. Along the same lines, sometimes when I’m in a big group of friends and not participating directly in the conversation, I lose track of what’s being said. However, I just copy the expressions of the other people in the group, and usually everyone is none the wiser. Of course, I sometimes feel silly after laughing at a joke with everyone and then having someone turn and ask me, “Did you understand?” “Uh, no, but I thought I’d laugh anyway so I looked like I had a clue…” Luckily I don’t get caught too often, and it’s far easier to just pretend I understand than to drag the conversation down by making people go back and explain whatever it was that I didn’t catch.


However, more often than not I’m able to follow the conversation just fine, and, when I’m feeling daring, sometimes I’ll even jump in myself. My spoken Portuguese is definitely the worst of out my reading, writing, speaking, and listening abilities. Because I am a perfectionist, that gives me a very good reason to keep my mouth shut. If I can’t say it correctly, I’d rather not say anything at all. Unfortunately, the only way for me to improve my speaking ability is to do just that – speak. When I’m writing I have time to look over my work and make sure everything agrees (verb tenses, gender, whether something is singular or plural), but when I’m speaking, things get jumbled. Portuguese is a lot more complicated than English, and even a little harder than Spanish, in terms of agreement. The hardest thing for me has been learning to just let go of my mistakes and keep talking. I always want to go back and correct everything I’ve said (I tend to realize I’ve made a mistake immediately AFTER I’ve said something), but if I were to do that, I’d end up talking myself in a circle and never get anywhere. So I let it go and move on.

As if making sure things agree weren’t hard enough, there’s also the matter of vocabulary. Let me tell you, a language consists of an awful lot of words. I’ve learned to be very creative in order to make up for my vocabulary deficiencies. Give me a sentence and I’ll find two or three other ways to express that same idea. I have to, since often I can’t translate my original English ideas into my less-than-stellar Portuguese. Synonyms are my best friends. Yesterday I was trying to explain to a friend how something was expanding, but I didn’t know the word for expand. I thought about it for a moment and then decided that the word “grow” would work just as well. I’ve also gotten good at descriptions. While I was staying at the hostel in São Paulo, I wanted to buy a lock for my locker, so I went to the nearest supermarket in search of one. However, I couldn’t remember the word for lock, so instead I got to involve the sales assistants in a fun little game of Brazilian Catch Phrase. “Hi, I don’t know the word for it, but I’m looking for something is used with a key to secure things.” They looked at me a little strangely, but nevertheless directed me to the locks section. Embarrassment and shyness have no place in the mindset of a person in a foreign country. I make a fool out of myself on a regular basis just to get by. That’s another time smiling comes in handy – if I smile and laugh at myself, usually I can get the Brazilian on the other side of the conversation to laugh with me, thereby making me feel slightly less foolish.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

A National Passion

Soccer - or futebol (foo-chee-bol) - is Brazil's national passion. Rio is no exception. Futebol is huge here. There are several teams that are based in Rio, and they play both each other and teams from other places. The most famous of those teams are Flamengo and Fluminense, but there are at least two other big teams, as well. Everybody cheers for a team here - the question is not whether or not you like futebol, it's what team in particular you support. I am a flamenguista, someone who cheers for Flamengo. I chose them because their name sounds like "flamingo" (though that isn't the Portuguese word for it) and I like their team colors, red and black. They're similar to my university's colors. As you can see, I'm a very devoted fan. That's not entirely on purpose; if I had access to TV, I wouldn't mind watching their games, but since I don't, there isn't much I can do.

Even though I don't have TV access, I can still tell when it's game day. Lots of people wear team jerseys, and every once in awhile there will be someone walking down a sidewalk waving a huge team flag. Since apartments are so open here, I can hear whenever anything important happens during the game because people in the surrounding apartments cheer. Recently Flamengo won an important game, and it seemed like the whole neighborhood was cheering. I think it's really cool the way watching a game becomes something of a community event. Instead of being shut away and isolated in an airtight apartment or house, Gávea residents can rejoice with everyone around them without ever stepping out their door.

Fittingly, Rio's futebol stadium, Maracanã, is a Carioca pride and joy. It's the biggest futebol stadium in South America, and nobody's about to let you forget it. There are signs throughout the city that feature a picture of Maracanã and the phrase "Maraca [I have no idea where the last syllable went] - how beautiful it is." As far as stadiums go, I guess I would agree that it is indeed aesthetically pleasing. It's a perfect circle, so it looks cool from the air. It is to be the site of the 2014 World Cup, and preparations are already being made.

A visit to Maracanã is on the Must Do List for every visitor in Rio, but until last week I'd never made it there for a game. However, some of my friends were going and invited me along, so I jumped at the opportunity. The game was between Fluminense, one of the super-popular Rio teams, and Corinthians, a team from São Paulo for which Ronaldo (one of Brazil's most famous futebol players) plays.

The stands at Maracanã are divided into three sections: a section for each team where the most loyal fans stand, and then a neutral section where anyone can stand. During really important games, a person isn't allowed into the rival team's section if he or she is wearing the opposing team's jersey. Though Brazilian fans are fairly well-behaved compared to world standards, that measure is in place to prevent possible confrontations. My friends and I stood in the neutral section, with Fluminense and Corinthians fans standing side by side around us.

I liked the energy and excitement of the game. I once watched part of a soccer game at my high school, but I found it boring because nobody was cheering. That was definitely not the case at Maracanã. The fans were enthusiastically engrossed in the game, swimming in a sea of red and green (Fluminense) or black and white (Corinthians). In addition to normal jerseys, for some reason winter hats in team colors seemed to be very popular, and I even saw a couple women in green pants or leggings. That's dedication.

The entire game was played to the steady rhythm of drums. From what I could tell, the drums were being played in the Corinthians fan section. There's nothing that announces a group is on the warpath quite like the sound of a drum. College football games are of course accompanied by a marching band, complete with a drumline, but I liked the rawness of the exposed percussion. It added a fierce, electric charge to the air and kept the energy level high.

Flags and banners were popular demonstrations of support, as well. Throughout the game I could see Fluminense fans waving large flags in the stands, and at one point, two Corinthians fans walked along the pathway near the field carrying two huge banners. A huge flag was also unfurled across an entire section of Corinthians fans. Corinthians may have been from six hours away, but they definitely were not lacking for support in Rio.

I took this photo leaving Rio last summer, and discovered Maracanã is visible near the top


Maracanã


Maracanã, with the huge Corinthians flag


almost the entire group


enthusiastic Fluminense fans

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

On the Farm

PUC organized a day trip for the international kids last Saturday, to a hotel that's located on a huge farm in Barra do Piraí, which is in the mountains of Rio de Janeiro state. It had lots of varied activities to keep us occupied, from hiking and horseback riding to ziplining and lounging by the pool. It was a really fun day - the perfect chance to just relax and get to know all the exchange kids a little better.


the hotel



Soon after we got there, all of us went on a hike throughout the land surrounding the hotel. It's a very mountainous area, so there were lots of excellent photo ops. The more I travel around this area, the more I realize just how mountainous it is. I had no idea Brazil had so many mountains, but there have been mountains in almost every place I've visited.




made it to the top of the climb!






in an area full of cool-looking rocks



Just as we were all dying for a drink of water, a man from the hotel appeared, leading a donkey that brought us drinking water and life jackets. Excellent timing. And why life jackets? Because we were about to cross a small lake on the most rickety "boat" ever constructed. We made it to the other side, but only barely. Of course, when we were in the middle all the guys decided it was the perfect opportunity for a water fight, which meant that everyone was soaked by the time we made it to solid ground. Nothing like being soaked in nasty lake water. Boys will be obnoxious boys, no matter what country they're from.




I think everyone was relieved to be on solid ground again!



Back at the hotel area, there was a leisure area set up with a pool, obstacle course suspended over water, and a zipline. I thought the zipline looked fun, so I decided to try it. I wasn't convinced the safety measures were quite on par with US ones, but I figured the worst that would happen to me would be that the line would snap in the middle of the lake, and I'd fall in the water - no big deal. Wrong. At the far end of the zipline, the line dipped low over the water, and the zipliner was supposed to be slowed by the water to coast to a stop near the landing area. For whatever unknown reason, the water didn't slow me down nearly enough, and I crashed almost full-speed into the wooden landing area. Ow. I seem to have a real knack for getting injured here in Brazil. As soon as they helped me out of the water, all the attendents clustered around me - "You're hurt! You're hurt! Oh no!" I wasn't in that much pain, so it really freaked me out that they were so worried. The nurse whisked me away to patch me up, as I realized that I had a big scratch across my back and another long scratch down my arm (which later developed some wonderfully colorful bruises). I was bleeding, and I all I could think of was my high school friend who, after getting pushed into a stream and cutting his knee, got horrifically sick from the bacteria in the water, and had to have IVs and everything. I didn't expect this lake water to be any better, especially since there were lots of farm animals around, which further degraded its purity. Though the nurse was very nice and attentive, all I received in the way of first aid was ice for my back and some antibiotic spray on my scratches - not exactly reassuring. I turned out to be perfectly fine, but I'm pretty sure this would never fly in the United States. The hotel would be too afraid of lawsuits. The landing area would have to be far more safe - or at the very least come equipped with padded cushions covering the hard, wooden areas! Yay for substandard Brazilian safety measures... Ah well, it was fun before I landed, at least!


right before I crashed...


lunching with friends from Portugal, the US, and Sweden


with another Portuguese friend, wearing almost-twin kangas



Kangas are about the closest approximation to any sort of national, unique cultural dress that exists in Brazil. As is fitting, kangas are worn on the beach (or by the pool). They actually serve a double purpose. Kangas are made of very lightweight material (I can see through mine if I hold it over my eyes), and they are used as the Brazilian version of a beach towel. They dry quickly, so in addition to be used as a towel, they make for a convenient beach cover-up (one crosses the kanga over oneself as though wrapping up in a towel, and then ties two ends around one's neck to make it into a sort of dress). I quite like the style - it's comfortable and lightweight. Plus, I love all the bright colors that kangas come in!

Sunday, May 10, 2009

The Bullets Move Closer

There was a shootout in Alto Leblon, a section of Leblon that borders Gávea, last week. It was a clash between a drug gang and the police again, and it was by the favela that's around there. In Portuguese, the name for the people who get into clashes with the police is "bandido," or "bandit" in English. I like it. It's simpler to call them bandits than drug lords or gang members. Nobody died this time, and only one person was wounded.



Last Sunday I heard something that sounded like gunshots in the distance and went on intermittently for quite awhile. It wasn't the same time as the Alto Leblon shootout, and I don't know for sure that it was gunshots. It could have been firecrackers or something - my untrained ear certainly can't tell the difference. Even so, it's interesting to live in a place where the possibility of gunfire is nothing extraordinary. At home, if I heard such a sound, I would of course dismiss it as nothing more than bored kids shooting off firecrackers. I've heard that the "bandits" also shoot off gunshots when large shipments of drugs arrive, so in some places it's possible to hear gunfire even when there isn't a shootout occurring.



Don't worry, though - I'm still not concerned. The area around my house and PUC has been completely tranquil. Even in the extremely unlikely event of a conflict, I think it would difficult for a stray bullet to enter my bedroom. My room faces another building that's only a few feet away and there's not really much open space around, so a stray bullet would have to richochet quite a lot to come anywhere near my room. News of shootouts is sensational, but it's sensational from a distance - I'm still out of range of the trouble.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Home Sweet Home

As I've said before, I live in the neighborhood of Gávea, which is where PUC is located. I was originally a little disappointed not to be living in Leblon again (where I lived last summer), but I've become rather fond of Gávea. Besides, I live as close to Leblon as possible without actually being in it - the avenue I live on is divided by a pedestrian area in the middle; my side of the avenue is in Gávea, the other side is in Leblon.



Gávea is definitely rougher around the edges than Leblon is. It's less touristic, so I suppose there's no reason for the glitz of Leblon. I remember walking through Gávea a couple times last summer and always being afraid of getting robbed, since at first glance the neighborhood looks a little sketchy to naïve American eyes. As it turns out, though, I feel just as safe in Gávea as I did in Leblon. The typical profile of a thief in Rio is a poor, darker-skinned (sounds bad, but it's true - there's a pretty direct relationship between skin color and class in Brazil) adolescent or early-twenties male (after that they literally die off in gang-motivated murders - an oft-quoted statistic is the fact that for males, Rio has a mortality rate equal to that of war zones) in well-worn clothing who is often slightly dirt-covered. These favela and street kids are easy to pick out, especially against the usual well-dressed, lighter-skinned crowd of the Zona Sul, and they're rare around Gávea.


That's the good part about Rio's absurd amount of robberies - at least it's easy to define who to watch out for. Granted, there are always exceptions, but it's nice to have a general idea. In Argentina and Uruguay I was always the slightest bit uneasy since thieves there blend in more. Apparently in Buenos Aires one tactic is for thieves to dress up as businessmen and then rob the unsuspecting people around them. I'd take Rio's easily-identifiable thieves any day. Of course, it's also necessary to note that there are many honest, law-abiding citizens who also fit that profile. In fact, most people who live in favelas are completely honest and simply live there for the cheaper housing. The illegal actions of a few have given a bad reputation to the term "favela" in general, both internationally and within Brazil and even Rio itself, which is really unfortunate.



So anyway, Gávea is safer than I expected. I love that I'm only a ten minute walk from PUC - I'm saving a ton on bus fares! I most appreciate this when I'm walking home at night. The traffic in my area is horrible during rush hour, and at times I can walk almost two blocks during a red light, without the traffic moving at all. I'm nearly home while everyone else is still stuck in their motionless cars.



As it turns out, I'm also wonderfully near two popular PUC hangouts. There's a bar called Seu Pires which is right across PUC and several blocks from my house. The bar itself is tiny, but the area around it gets really crowded at night. Students spill out on the street, angering drivers and occasionally causing the police to come by with their sirens on to force students to move back. On Thursday nights, students move from Seu Pires to another bar called Baixo Gávea, which is about a block from my house. There are actually several bars around there, though Baixo Gávea is definitely the most famous. People stay there til long past midnight, but still I feel safe enough to walk that block back to my apartment alone. Definitely on my guard, but alone. I love the convenience of it.


my apartment


what I see walking to school every day!


Rio has tons of cool grafitti along the streets...I think it brings color and life to otherwise drab walls


more cool grafitti


the neighbhorhood playground


Cristo Redentor watching over Gávea


Santos Dumont Plaza, a parklike area about a block from my apartment


there's a reason I call this place paradise...


Seu Pires Bar


a typical Thursday night


looks pretty boring, but this place gets packed with students on Thursdays, since it's the area near Baixo Gávea


the Zona Sul supermarket, just a few hundred meters from my apartment
like many/most stores in Rio, the sides are open and there are no doors to go through


neighborhood gas station - in Brazil, it's illegal to fill up your own car; an attendent has to do it for you


Shopping da Gávea, the neighborhood shopping mall


along the "main street"


along the "main street"


Neighborhood Church #1


Neighborhood Church #2, right across from the Catholic one


along the "main street"


a distant favela (Rocinha, perhaps?) on the hills in the background that's visible from Gávea


natural beauty at its finest